Robyn Keyser is the designer behind Artclub and Friends, a model that goals to encourage native manufacturing and sourcing of fabric. Artclub and Associates clothes are made in Woodstock utilizing materials produced in Cape City, down the street from the retailer’s studio.
The model specialises in overalls and monochrome two-pieces that may be dressed up or down; its feel and look is workwear meets normcore. When Keyser established Artclub and Associates, the objective was to make comfy garments that have been freed from dimension and gender norms. With its clear look, and value tags which might be out of attain for a lot of, the previous two years have seen the model develop into a staple amongst Johannesburg and Cape City’s haves and a sartorial objective for the have-nots.
Keyser spoke to the Mail & Guardian about staying moral whereas financially surviving a worldwide pandemic.
How is Artclub and Associates doing?
Uhm, we’re doing okay. We’re fairly fortunate as a result of we largely outsource what we do. I’ve just one full-time workers member. In that approach, we’re fairly resilient via what’s occurring now.
I really feel if my enterprise have been 5 years older, this might have been a way more disturbing scenario. As a lot as larger and extra established companies have reserves for a wet day, additionally they have way more obligations and commitments. To shrink and adapt is way simpler once you don’t have 5 shops or 100 workers. However it’s nonetheless arduous as a result of, being a 26-year-old with a two-year-old enterprise, I didn’t have a contingency plan in place in case a pandemic hit.
Eish, information. With that in thoughts, how are you holding up?
I’ve been considering so much about moral enterprise practices. An enormous a part of being moral is being delicate to your prospects. That’s been a psychological Olympics for me.
When the federal government put the lockdown in place there have been plenty of manufacturers throwing round wild gross sales and reductions with the message that you simply want what they’re promoting and also you’re fortunate that they’re giving it to you at a fraction of the value.
What I really feel most of my prospects have to be doing proper now’s saving their money. As a lot as I wish to push gross sales to get folks to avoid wasting my enterprise — as a lot as I like my merchandise and stand by them — I do typically really feel like possibly dungarees aren’t a very powerful factor proper now. That’s been fairly bizarre.
When was the final time an Artclub and Associates garment was made?
That was in early March. We now have a complete bunch of inventory that’s nearly prepared, however our producers needed to shut their doorways when the lockdown started. Among the clothes might be completed now as a result of they fall into the class of winter put on. However the remaining are simply chilling indefinitely till the producers are allowed to work on them. For instance, we will’t contact T-shirts as a result of they’re not winter put on.
We do, nevertheless, have plenty of inventory prepared as a result of we have been speculated to open our Johannesburg retailer a number of weeks in the past. With out that we might have run out of things to promote.
And gross sales? How have these fared for the reason that lockdown?
We’ve misplaced 75% of our gross sales income however as a result of everyone seems to be at house, they’re procuring extra on-line. A few of these gross sales have come from the individuals who would usually store at our studio or at one of many stockists we provide.
Our on-line gross sales have elevated immensely. I’m so glad we’ve got a platform and that we took our time ensuring it really works nicely. It’s been an incredible avenue for revenue, earlier than and in the course of the lockdown.
However then the gross sales are nowhere close to sufficient to make up for what we might usually make in a month. In Cape City an enormous a part of native manufacturers’ revenue is from vacationers. Vacationers love shopping for native as a result of the standard is sweet and the value vary is accessible for them.
We don’t have that now. We are able to develop the numbers, for positive. However I additionally simply surprise how lengthy persons are going to have the ability to afford procuring on-line. That further bit of cash left over after obligations is what small companies like Artclub survive on. I don’t wish to encourage our supporters to transcend their means.
So that you’re saying you haven’t marketed for the reason that lockdown started?
Sure. We haven’t run a single advert. We would begin this week. I really feel much less bizarre about it now that retailers are open for winter necessities. What we’re not doing is pushing gross sales via discounting. I don’t wish to encourage folks to purchase issues that they don’t essentially want however they’re shopping for [anyway] as a result of it’s so low-cost. If it was beforehand discounted then that’s positive.
What concerning the autumn/winter 2020 assortment that you simply had deliberate to point out at South African Style Week?
I had all these concepts and materials prepared earlier than we went into lockdown. However my perspective modified whereas being below lockdown. The designs that I had appeared irrelevant. I’ve gone via an attention-grabbing change being at house. I’ve develop into hyperaware and begun questioning my materials possessions. That’s filtered into what I make. I’m extra involved with making issues that should be in folks’s cabinets. Earlier than I used to be designing extra quicker and extra chaotically. Now I would really like for every part to be extra thought of. It’s totally different to what I’ve ever finished. It’s a bit of extra uniform and utility oriented. That’s how I’m feeling, dressing and current. Utility is the phrase.
Are there every other initiatives which might be on maintain?
Sure. The largest is establishing store at 44 Stanley Avenue in Jo’burg, ha! We now have a complete store sitting in my studio, able to be put in in Jo’burg. The entire retailer exists; we simply haven’t moved in. We’re unsure once we’ll be capable to open however we’re wanting into having a pop-up in Cape City of what our Jo’burg retailer would seem like when rules enable folks to occupy public areas.
We now have additionally been engaged on a brand new undertaking: we’ve got our fundamental shapes and patterns obtainable and our prospects come and get precisely what they need made in-store. Individuals have a lot of their closets, but it surely’s totally different variations of the fallacious issues. You may have 4 denim jackets and never absolutely love any of them. For the sake of sustainability, if folks get precisely what they need, they’ll maintain it for lots longer and take care of it correctly. It’s a complete new approach of doing this, but it surely’s going to be fulfilling to be that hands-on with prospects.
In case your Jo’burg lease started this month, however you’re not occupying the house, how does hire work?
The individuals who run 44 Stanley have been extremely supportive and understanding. They’ve been checking in and letting me know that they wish to know the way we will make this work to swimsuit my wants and means. I feel it helps that I haven’t moved in but. Leases are scary issues. They’re positive till you hit a pandemic. Then you definately in a short time see what landlords are actually about.
Has working a enterprise throughout a pandemic taught you any classes? How are you adapting?
This lockdown has pressured me to take inventory of what we put our vitality into. Sure, it’s a tough time, but it surely’s been a telling one. Like I mentioned earlier, all through the lockdown we haven’t finished any promoting or supplied any gross sales. We left our on-line retailer open and let folks know that we will ship when rules allow us to. And but we’ve got made some gross sales. It means folks remembered us.
Once I began Artclub it was a possibility to create a world that I would like. I determine tips on how to cope with prospects past the product. It’s how I talk with them when issues go fallacious; how I discuss to them about their our bodies. I feel that’s why we’re nonetheless right here. It’s like they are saying: each buy is a vote.
The Artclub neighborhood may be very actual and really highly effective. Our supporters have to be taken care of and deeply thought of. They’re the explanation why we’re right here